Heading out west for a 7-day road trip to explore the stunningly mountainous state of Colorado was one of the best US summer vacation ideas my wife had sold me on in years!
If you’re an avid hiker with a goal to conquer the famous 14ers, or a mountain biker keen to cruise the Mineral Belt Trail, want to go fly fishing in the Rio Grande or navigate the whitewater rapids of the Arkansas River, you’re going to be in absolute heaven out here. With one of us recovering from a leg fracture, this roadie was more about photographing the OTT scenery, walking around historic western towns, soaking in hot springs, and hunting down legendary taco trucks. Regardless of your vacation style, one thing is for sure, Colorado has something to offer everyone.
Day 1. Fly into Denver airport, take I-70 and head west
Flying from New York’s LGA airport direct to Denver is a buyers choice with some great deals available, particularly for those who like to plan ahead. Upon arrival, we loaded up our Chevy Malibu as the Hertz rep apologized about it being the last car they had. Undeterred by it being a 4-door sedan, we headed towards I-70 and Glenwood Springs, our first stop for the night.
Winding our way up through the enormous canyons of the Rocky Mountains, I fell quickly into a picture-snapping stupor as mile after mile of magnificently dramatic scenery unfolded around us.
Overnight in Glenwood Springs
Boasting an enormous rust-colored mountain as a backdrop, Glenwood Springs is roughly a 3hr drive from Denver and sits at an altitude of 5,700 ft, which is low for these parts.
With a population of 10,000, Glenwood Springs has multiple, large hot springs baths — Iron Mountain Hot Springs and Glenwood Hot Springs Resort are both terrific! — an adventure park with the highest elevation, full-sized roller coaster in North America, and one of the best taco trucks we’ve ever ordered from. For accommodation, I recommend the historic Hotel Colorado, a favorite of locals, hot springs enthusiasts, early-century gangsters who dropped down from Chicago, and US president Teddy Roosevelt.
Opting for a quick breakfast (there’s plenty of tasty standards on Hotel Colorado’s restaurant menu), we checked in for our 3hr reserved soak with access to 32 pools at Iron Mountain Hot Springs. My first mineral bath experience outside of Saratoga Springs in NY, I rate it as sublime and extremely tough to leave.
Day 2. Take the Kebler Pass to Crested Butte
A roadie is nothing without clocking time on the highways, so we filled up the tank and set off on the 3hr, gas-station-less drive to Crested Butte across the Kebler Pass, a sturdy but unsealed road open only from mid-June to mid-October.
If you’re thinking twice about taking this stretch of hardened dirt road, my advice is to grip the wheel a bit tighter and take the Kebler Pass anyway, because it features some of the most insanely magnificent scenery of all time. Fields full of wild flowers open out onto sprawling grassy plains packed with spruce forests and epic mountains views — plus, it’s home to one of the largest single-organism aspen groves in the US. If you’re lucky like we were, you’ll hear goats’ bells echoing throughout stretches of the tall, sun-speckled trees and catch the shepherds wild-grazing their flocks.
Overnight at Crested Butte Resort
My wife is an avid downhill skier, so staying at the Crested Butte Resort during summer was both a scouting mission and a tease. Sitting at an altitude of 9,375 ft, this mountain is stunningly beautiful year round and was bustling with families, hikers and mountain bikers when we stayed.
If you’ve not spent time at altitude before and start feeling a bit lightheaded or notice a shortness of breath, pick up a small can of oxygen from the local store or gas station. We stayed at the well-situated Nordic Inn and bought a purse-sized can for $10 at the hotel’s front desk. Local friends shared that staying hydrated is also key when acclimating to high altitudes and recommended adding electrolyte beverages to your rotation.
Time for breakfast. We headed down the mountain to the township of Crested Butte and to Rumors Coffee and Tea House for one of the delicious breakfast burritos Colorado is famous for, and Camp 4 Coffee on Elk Avenue for a java fix.
Day 3. Take the Slumgullion Pass to Creede…at 11,500 ft, it’s high!
Leaving Crested Butte, we drove through Lake City and took the Slumgullion Pass, enjoying the roads pretty much to ourselves along with sweeping views of Lake San Cristobel, Colorado’s second largest natural lake. If trout fishing or boating is your bag, you may want to stay and explore what’s on offer here.
Day 4 and 5: Explore Main Street and Take in a Show in Creede
Winding our way alongside the Rio Grande River for just under 2hr 45 mins, we pulled into the small, historic mining town of Creede and loaded ourselves into the Aspen Inn. At 8,852 ft, the town boasts massive rocky cliffs as backdrop to Main Street and Creede Repertory Theatre, which attracts a constant stream of holiday-makers and theater-lovers all summer long.
Day 6. Head to Bunny and Clyde’s in Salida
Leaving Creede, we drove north along Hwy 285 for 2hrs to the town of Salida. Perched on the Arkansas River, summer here is centered around water sports including kayaking, white water rafting, paddle boarding and fishing. We checked into the Manhattan Hotel and watched the rafting action from the safety of our balcony.
Enjoying our last breakfast burrito (on this trip) with a large coffee, we basked in the morning sun in the outdoor area at Bunny and Clyde’s on W 1st Street. Afterwards we checked out some of the cool stores lining the streets in the historic downtown area.
Day 7. In Leadville, cruise the Mineral Belt Trail and tour the Tabor Opera House
Located a short 1hr drive from Salida, no trip to Leadville would be complete without renting a bike from Cycles of Life and taking a self-guided tour of the scenic and historic Mineral Belt Trail, a 12.5 mile paved loop that wanders through Leadville’s Historic Mining District. The trail takes you through aspen groves, conifer forests, wildflower meadows and offers unbelievable views of the Mosquito and Sawatch ranges.
Taking a tour of Leadville’s historic Tabor Opera House was an awe-inspiring experience. Working in the theater business in NYC, we were both captivated by the beauty of the original red-velvet Andrews opera chairs and show posters adorning the walls. Sitting backstage in a chair where Oscar Wilde once sat, and seeing the trap door magician Harry Houdini used during his act was a pure delight.
Leaving Leadville, we headed back towards Denver Airport with one jammed-packed week’s worth of awesome stories to share and what seemed like a bag full of eye-popping photos in my pocket.
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